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| Girl, look at that body |
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| Game face |
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| Cute curly wave |
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| Foamy |
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| Intentional |
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Coda
In the last few days I was lucky to receive some more photos (thanks, Laura!). Here are a few of my favorite close-ups:
Friday, March 30, 2012
All good things
After a long day of travel, I'm finally back in Seattle and looking forward to lunching on some delicious Indian food and a big slice of the beautiful raspberry pie Holly made me as a welcome home present. Later on, I may flush an entire roll of toilet paper down the toilet, just because, dammit, I can.
To my friends in Nosara - thanks for the kindness and the joy you brought to my adventure. I already miss paddling out to a lineup of friendly and familiar faces.
To my friends in Nosara - thanks for the kindness and the joy you brought to my adventure. I already miss paddling out to a lineup of friendly and familiar faces.
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| The end of the line |
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
Nice ride
A scorching left-hander from yesterday, presented in two parts:
Surprisingly, I managed to ride this one all the way in, even after that wall of whitewater you see above landed between my shoulder blades. Check out that offshore wind!
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| Steep |
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| Steeper |
Surprisingly, I managed to ride this one all the way in, even after that wall of whitewater you see above landed between my shoulder blades. Check out that offshore wind!
The wrong way
Today, I picked up a copy of all the photos that Surfing Nosara has taken of me over these past 11 weeks. I thought I'd share some shots of a few of my less successful rides.
Aaaah - I do enjoy a good wipeout picture.
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| January 18 |
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| February 9 |
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| February 9 |
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| Februrary 10 |
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| March 24 |
Monday, March 26, 2012
A funny joke
The property manager's assistant just stopped by. The complex just got a real internet hookup. They are putting a wireless router in my apartment tomorrow. After 10 weeks of super-glitchy skype calls, I am going to have high-speed internet. For one day.
The final countdown
Only three days left.
It seems like I left Seattle a lifetime ago, but somehow I feel like I've only just arrived in Nosara. It's hard to remember the job that I quit two days before I got on the plane that brought me here. It's hard to imagine why I didn't quit sooner.
It will be good to be home. I miss Holly, my friends, real grocery stores, good restaurants, taking walks in sub-90-degree temperatures. But I'm going to miss the handful of friends I've only barely begun to get to know here. I'm going to miss the sun and the beach. I'm going to miss surfing most of all.
The experience of this trip wasn't exactly what I was expecting, but it was more like what I was expecting than I expected it to be, if that makes any sense.
I'm pleased with how far my surfing has come. It was hard work, pleasant as the work environment may have been, and I'm quite proud of what I've achieved. I still have an almost infinite list of surfing skills to acquire and master -- but I've made that first, quantum leap from beginner ("I'm learning to surf") to intermediate ("I'm a surfer who's learning X"). That feels pretty good.
It seems like I left Seattle a lifetime ago, but somehow I feel like I've only just arrived in Nosara. It's hard to remember the job that I quit two days before I got on the plane that brought me here. It's hard to imagine why I didn't quit sooner.
It will be good to be home. I miss Holly, my friends, real grocery stores, good restaurants, taking walks in sub-90-degree temperatures. But I'm going to miss the handful of friends I've only barely begun to get to know here. I'm going to miss the sun and the beach. I'm going to miss surfing most of all.
The experience of this trip wasn't exactly what I was expecting, but it was more like what I was expecting than I expected it to be, if that makes any sense.
I'm pleased with how far my surfing has come. It was hard work, pleasant as the work environment may have been, and I'm quite proud of what I've achieved. I still have an almost infinite list of surfing skills to acquire and master -- but I've made that first, quantum leap from beginner ("I'm learning to surf") to intermediate ("I'm a surfer who's learning X"). That feels pretty good.
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