Wednesday, January 11, 2012

My day off

Today was our "day off" at surf camp - which really means the staff get a well-deserved break from dealing with us and we are left to our own devices. But nobody ever got good at anything by taking the day off, so at 8:30 I tucked the 8'2" that I'd set aside the night before under my arm and set off down the beach on foot. This also served as a test run for my commute (once I don't have Surf Simply driving me to and from the beach), and overall wasn't too bad - about a 7 minute walk from my soon-to-be residence, which is just down the road. The return trip took a couple minutes longer and the board felt a few pounds heavier by then, but it was still manageable. Phew.

The waves were beautiful this morning - long, peeling ones with an offshore wind propping them up until they were almost vertical. But too challenging for me. I decided to forego trying to fight my way out back and do what I probably should be doing anyway - popup drills in the whitewater. Not very glamorous, but I need to get better at consistently getting my feet to the correct spot on the board, coming up with my weight solidly over my front foot, and using my hip to shift my from front to back. I do think I made some progress. The fact that I get to practice in warm water under a lovely blue sky makes even slow progress enjoyable.

Other notable things that happened today - I ate two freshly-from-the-oven banana-chocolate chip muffins, and I had an amazing full-body massage. It was a pretty good day off.

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